DC based travel, lifestyle and photography blog. A bit of wanderlust mixed with a dash of intention.
Hello friends! Since returning to D.C. I have been busy unpacking and reintegrating, and very remiss about blogging. I hope to change that in the weeks to come. In the meantime, enjoy a few images from our most recent snow!
It's been nearly a month since my last check in, so where have I been? Great question.
In the month of December I have been in London, Washington, D.C., my lovely island home in SW Florida, and then embarked on a whirlwind trip around the World visiting France, Morocco, China, Japan, Norway, Mexico and Canada before making it back to the U.K. for dinner, then heading to Hollywood, Main Street USA and of course, a quick safari in Africa before trekking Everest and heading back to the island.
As you may have guessed, when I said trip around the World, I meant Walt Disney World.
It was my first trip back in over a decade and it was just as magical as I remembered, and the perfect way to readjust to "real life."
Thankfully, "real life" does not have to start until after the holidays, so until then, I will continue to soak up the Florida sunshine and snuggle with this furry face.
It is hard to believe that six months have gone by since I was sitting in the terminal at Dulles, wondering if I had made a huge mistake. In the last six months, I have (predictably) had good days and bad days. I have felt alone and I have felt overwhelmed with support. I have known exactly what I wanted, and I have felt utterly lost and rudderless. Most of all, I have felt lucky and blessed. What an incredible gift to have six months of holiday, to really take time to devote to what you love (in my case, photography) and to really spend time with yourself.
I still don't know what exactly comes next, but I do know that I would like to make photography more than a hobby, and I can't wait to explore the city I've called home the last ten years with the same enthusiasm that I have had in London and Paris.
I think the most important lesson I learned was that it really isn't where, but who you are with, that matters. And I have been incredibly blessed to have shared this adventure with so many wonderful people. People I have known for years and people I have only just met. The latter make it so hard to leave, but just like I know I have wonderful friends and family to go home to, I now have wonderful friends to visit (and please expect me to visit!) in France and England.
I am sure I will do a lot of reflecting on the past six months for days, weeks, months and maybe even years to come. But for now, I say thank you to London and Paris, for taking me in. Thank you to the people that I have met along the way for welcoming me into your lives. And thank you to the friends and family that encouraged me to take this trip in the first place. It has been more than I could have ever imagined.
Though I may be 4,500 miles away from home and family, and unlikely to find the Macy's Thanksgiving Parade on the "telly" here, it is still Thanksgiving, and as anyone who has seen this blog knows, I have so very much to be thankful for.
Not least of which was getting to celebrate the holiday with friends and a traditional feast of turkey and all the trimmings this past weekend. We spent the afternoon and evening cooking, crafting and of course, eating. A far cry from the turkey burger I enjoyed during my last Thanksgiving in London* it was an amazing meal (the arrival of Whole Foods in London has transformed the expat Thanksgiving experience) and a wonderful evening spent with friends.
*That was also a wonderful Thanksgiving in its own way: I had an internship and had to work on Thanksgiving, but my co-workers (who knew it was my first holiday away from home) took me to lunch at the only place they could find nearby that served anything turkey (thus the turkey burger), had me tell them the story of Thanksgiving, and then promptly put me in the conference room with the international calling card so I could chat with my family on the holiday. I still get a little teary eyed when I think about it.
In less than two weeks, I will be headed to Heathrow, with overstuffed bags to be sure, but also an overstuffed heart full of the wonderful people I have met and places I have seen. Rather than bore you with a laundry list of the many reasons I have to be overflowing with gratitude today, I will just say that I am so thankful to have had this amazing opportunity, for the wonderful friends I have made along the way and especially for my friends and family who supported and encouraged me to take this leap (and continue to do so daily). Thank you hardly seems sufficient, but for now it will have to do.
To my dear family and friends, near and far, I thank you and wish you a very Happy Thanksgiving!
The UK may have enjoyed one of its most spectacular summers in recent history this year, but for me, nothing can top this autumn. There is something magical about the light here this time of year, it seems as if everything is light from within, and tipped in gold. So on a particularly beautiful day last week, I decided to venture north towards the Peak District and visit Chatsworth House. One of the most famous and visited homes in the U.K., Chatsworth is familiar to visitors around the world from its star turn as Pemberley in the 2005 film adaptation of Pride and Prejudice.
The House was turned out for Christmas, depicting scenes from The Lion The Witch and the Wardrobe, but to be honest, I didn't spend much time inside as the upper rooms were closed for renovations and, as I mentioned, it was one of those days that practically demands you spend it outdoors. 
So I bundled up and ventured outside to enjoy the estate's 105 acres of gardens, soaking up the beauty of autumn in all its glory. 
From the first time I saw Harry Potter and the Sorcerer's Stone (yes, I saw the movie first, before reading the books, gasp!), I was hooked on the magical world of Hogwarts and the adventures of Harry, Ron and Hermione. I subsequently read every word of every book, anxiously awaiting the next installment, and savoring every film. My mom and I even ventured up to the Universal Studios Harry Potter theme park a few Christmases ago. So when I woke up to a particularly cold and rainy day in London this week, I decided it was the perfect day to escape to Hogwarts (aka, the Warner Brothers Studio Tour, where guests can tour the actual sound stages where filming took place, complete with original sets, props and costumes used in the films) conveniently located just outside of Central London (and easily accessible by public transport!).
From the cupboard under the stairs, our tour took us to Hogwarts...
…where we arrived to a great feast in a delightfully decorated Great Hall.
Dumbledore and the rest of the faculty and staff were on hand.
Harry's original robes from the first film were on display in the Gryffindor section of the Hall.
Speaking of Harry's robes, here's his Invisibility Cloak in the Gryffindor Common Room
Dumbledore's office and Hagrid's Hut (fun fact, most of the canine actors that portrayed Hagrid's dog Fang were rescues!).
The Borough, home to the Weasley's and of course, Diagon Alley.
Getting to walk down this set was a treat! Then we moved on to darker places...
Voldemort's robes were the only ones that were not made of heavy materials, they were made of silk so that they would be more dramatic.
Copies of the Daily Prophet, a few of the (many) letters inviting Harry to attend Hogwarts, and the Marauder's Map.
One of my favorites parts of the tour was seeing the original sketches and miniature models of the sets.
But the "showstopper" was the giant model of Hogwarts, used in the first seven films to depict the exterior of the castle. The final film used a CGI version.
The lighting cycled from day to night, highlighting the amazing detail in the model, with twinkling lights and miniature owls tucked away.
I had a lovely (one might say magical) day in the world of Harry Potter. If you enjoyed the series, I would highly recommend a visit.
Confession: of all of the beautiful, stately homes in the United Kingdom, I really wanted to track down the adorable Rose Hill cottage (and equally charming town) from The Holiday (aka the chicken soup of movies, pure comfort, and a bit underrated in my humble opinion). Much to my dismay, I learned that the cottage wasn't real, and the facade was actually constructed on a set in La-La Land, where most of the movie was filmed. Dreams dashed, I was determined to find and visit the most charming village or town in England (complete with adorable cottages).
After some research, I found that it is widely accepted that the "prettiest village in England" is Castle Combe, on the edge of the Cotswolds, near Bath. And as luck would have it, it is only about an hour and a half's train ride from London! So, when I woke up on Tuesday to clear blue skies and sunshine, I hightailed it to Paddington Station to see if Castle Combe lived up to its reputation.
In addition to being among the prettiest, Castle Combe must also be among the tiniest villages in England. But what it lacks in size, it more than makes up for in charm.
I spent the day wandering about, following paths both well defined and less so, climbing muddy hills as best I could in boots without any tread (I even succeeded in staying upright on the climbs down, somehow).
It seemed like every time I turned around, I saw another pretty view.
When my hands finally got so cold that it was difficult to take photos, I retreated to the lovely Manor House Hotel for High Tea.
The tea was wonderful, the location was breathtaking, and the staff were incredibly kind. I have no idea what the rooms are like, but based on my experience, I would highly recommend the Manor House to anyone wanting to visit the area! They also have a Michelin starred restaurant for you traveling gourmands.
I could have happily sat in front of their roaring fireplace all afternoon, the light was fading quickly and I had a train to catch!
While I cannot say for certain that Castle Combe is the prettiest village in England (I haven't visited all of the others, yet), it is hard to imagine a prettier or more charming place to spend a day.
After my lovely trip to Cambridge, I was promptly informed that "Oxford is better." The person who uttered these words has a reason to be biased; a friend from my Canterbury days, Ashley went to Oxford for graduate school (smarty pants) and, determined to prove herself right (or actually just because she's really nice), kindly offered to show me around town, and I could not have asked for a better tour guide!
We started at Pembroke College, where Ashley was a student. It was a treat to get to go beyond the doors and actually see the inside of a college, especially one so pretty!
Founded by King James I, the College is known for having a strong Boat Club and was where J.R.R. Tolkein wrote The Hobbit and the first two Lord of the Rings books while he was a Fellow. Fun fact: the founder of Washington's Smithsonian Institute, James Smithson, was a student at Pembroke
My fabulous tour guide, Ashley
After getting an insider's look at life as an Oxford student, I made my way through town to the Bodleian Library for their Reading Rooms tour, taking a few pictures along the way (naturally).
Usually closed to the public, Duke Humfrey's Library with its rare books and the Radcliffe Camera Reading Room were stunning, and well worth the trip! Sadly, photography is not permitted in the Library, but I was able to take photographs in the Divinity School, where the tour began. If it looks familiar to you, then you are a Harry Potter fan! This is where they filmed the infirmary scenes from the first film.
After the tour I met Ashely at the coziest pub I could imagine, the Turf Tavern, for a proper Sunday Roast.
Then it was time to wander over to Hogwarts, I mean Christ Church College. Many thanks to Ashley for her patience as I continued to snap away.
Christ Church Hall was the model for the fictional Hogwart's Great Hall (sadly, no enchanted ceiling or sorting hats in the real one, but incredible nonetheless). The college is also the setting for Alice's Adventures in Wonderland, as Lewis Carroll studied and taught at Christ Church.
After a walk along the river and a visit to the boat houses, we enjoyed a pint at the Eagle and Child, a favorite of Tolkein and his friend C.S. Lewis and their literary club, The Inklings.
All in all it was a wonderful day with an old friend, I am so glad that Ashley and I have gotten reacquainted during my time in London.
All text and images copyright © 2013, Capital Citizenne. All Rights Reserved.
After a few blustery days here in London (thanks to St. Jude the storm), I woke to beautiful blue skies on Wednesday morning. It was the kind of crisp, Autumn day that makes you want to buy new pencils and notebooks and go back to school, which made it the perfect day to visit Cambridge. Armed with my camera, I caught a direct train from King's Cross to Cambridge and in about an hour I found myself wandering the city's cobblestone streets and passages, exploring the colleges, and criss-crossing the River Cam on it's many bridges.
In addition to being home to one of the world's best universities and beautiful architecture, Cambridge is also home to more bicycles than I have ever seen in my entire life! Dozens of bikes were outside every college, and there were hundreds of them "parked" at the train station. It seems like everyone in Cambridge zooms around on bikes with big wicker baskets. (Note to self: must re-learn to ride a bike!)
Trinity College, one of the University's three royal colleges. Alumni include Isaac Newton, Francis Bacon, Prince Charles and more than a few handfuls of other notables!
King's College Chapel. The famed Choir's Nine Lessons and Carols are broadcast from the Chapel by the BBC every Christmas Eve.
Clare College and the River Cam
The Mathematical Bridge (never being much of a math student, I do not understand the explanations I read about the engineering of this bridge, something to do with tangents. I do know that, despite the arched appearance, the timbers are all straight and it has been rebuilt three times since 1749.)
All text and images copyright © 2013, Capital Citizenne. All Rights Reserved.
When I set out on my adventure, I can honestly say that visiting Liverpool was not on my must-do list. I didn't really know anything about the city other than that it is the birthplace of the Beatles and the local accent is a tricky one for my American ears. My trip to Liverpool was entirely based on wanting to see an exhibition of Tim Hetherington's work at the OpenEye Gallery. Hetherington was an award winning photojournalist, spending most of his time in the worst places in the world, producing incredible images and telling important stories. (If you have not already, I highly recommend you see both Restrepo, which he co-directed with Sebastian Junger, and Which Way is the Front Line From Here, created by Junger following Hetherington's death in Libya in 2011 while covering the civil war).
I considered simply making a day trip to see the exhibition (Liverpool is just over two hours from London by train), but after a bit of research I quickly realized there was a lot more to see and do in Liverpool and decided to make it an overnight visit, booking a room at the modern and minimalist Hope Street Hotel.
Liverpool is home to numerous architecturally significant buildings - ranging from Tudor to ultra-modern styles - and is scattered throughout with sculpture and street art. It is a photographer's dream city.
My first stop was the Open Eye Gallery and the exhibition was absolutely worth the trip. While many of the images in You Never See Them Like This were familiar from the documentaries, there is something about seeing them on a large scale that makes them that much more intense. His Sleeping Soldiers series was one of the most moving I've ever seen.
Following a trip to the nearby Tate Liverpool, I planned to take a ferry ride across the Mersey (cue up Gerry and the Pacemakers) but the gale force winds and my proclivity to motion sickness cancelled those plans!
Instead, I stumbled upon "The Beatles Hidden Gallery" -- located above the ferry terminal -- which is home to a treasure trove of previously unseen images of The Beatles taken between 1963-1964 by Paul Beriff. It was the perfect bridge between my main interests in visiting Liverpool: photography and doing something Beatles-related.
When it comes to The Beatles, I am enough of a fan that I had to do something John/Paul/George & Ringo-related, but not so much that I had to take a two hour bus tour or visit their homesteads. Instead, I decided that I would pay a visit to the club where it all began, and where so many legends have played, The Cavern Club. Technically the current Cavern is actually next door to the original, but they recreated the space using a lot of materials from the original, so it was good enough for me! I descended the stairs, ordered a pint and settled in with fellow-fans for an acoustic Beatles-tribute set. Perfect.
Having finally warmed up, I braced myself for the wind and walked back down to the Albert Docks to do a quick night shoot (and nearly got blown into the Mersey!) before heading "home" to Hope Street for dinner at their lovely restaurant, The London Carriage Works.
The next morning, the sun was shining and the weather was perfect for a trip to the top of Liverpool Cathedral's vestry tower. The Cathedral is the largest in the United Kingdom and the fifth largest in the world (and was designed by the same architect who designed the iconic red telephone booths, Giles Gilbert Scott). Thankfully, there are lifts to take you most of the way up the tower, but the hundred or so steps you have to climb offer terrific views of the tower bells (I can't imagine how loud it would be when they are ringing!).
The views were absolutely wonderful and well-worth the ticket and the queue.
After a quick trip to Bold Street for a bowl of Scouse at Maggie May's, I hopped back on a train and enjoyed my view of sunny Autumn English countryside as we raced back to London.
Leaving Paris was not easy, but I returned to a dazzling London full of beautiful Autumn weather. Crisp, cool days, clear skies, and leaves starting to turn golden hues every where you looked. Hyde Park is just a short stroll from my Notting Hill flat, so I was able to make the most of the weather with daily strolls along its many paths and on a particularly lovely Sunday, I organized a picnic on Hampstead Heath with my friend Scott - a perfect way to get readjusted to London living.
I am within the two month mark of the time I have left on this leg of my adventure, and I cannot believe how quickly it has gone. As much as I have loved it, I am also a bit ready to return to my little house in Washington (despite how crazy it seems there these days!), my friends and family, and of course, my pup. That said, I still have a few more excursions planned and a few visitors in the queue! I am looking forward to having two fellow lovers of London visit in the next few weeks and rediscovering this city with them!
All text and images copyright © 2013, Capital Citizenne. All Rights Reserved.
After a wonderful month filled with new adventures and new friends in Paris, I am back in London. I was not sure what I was expecting out of my month in France, but it is safe to say it far surpassed any expectations I had! And while my seven years of french studies did not suddenly come back to me, I managed to get by and feel inspired to return to studying the language...
Most importantly, I did something I have never really done before: move (albeit only for a month) to a city where I knew no one. There were no old friends, or friends of friends to help me feel at home like in London (or in D.C., or even at Wake Forest). For the first time in my life I was truly on my own, and it was actually kind of exciting (it was also frightening, but lets focus on the positives!). I joined a few MeetUp groups for photographers and expats and quickly built a mini social network that provided a great addition to my time in Paris.
While I set off for Paris without a social safety net, I did not go empty handed. I arrived with loads of wonderful recommendations of what to see, do and where to eat in Paris (merci beaucoup Scott, Gayle, Meg, Collin and Fawn and, of course, Nathalie). Since those recommendations were incredibly useful in planning and making the most of my month , I thought I would pass along a few of my Paris favorites in case you are planing a trip!
Food & Drink:
As I mentioned in an earlier blog, I came to Paris knowing little about French wines but wanted to learn. I loved the tastings and tour I did with O Chateau: a very friendly atmosphere where the primary language is English, but did not feel overly touristy. I would highly recommend scheduling a tasting or just popping in one evening and chatting with one of their sommelier's over a tasty cheese and charcuterie board. If you have a day (and like bubbly), sign up for their tour of the Champagne region, it was one of my absolute favorite Paris days.
Fish (69, Rue de Seine): a great little restaurant in the St. Germain des Pres area that is open on Sunday evenings. This spot, owned by Brits I believe (making it English friendly) is always bustling and busy, but if you go early and grab a seat at the bar you are in for a wonderful meal and, depending on how busy, a nice chat (if you want) with the bartender.
Le Coup Chou (9 & 11, rue de Lanneau 75005): simply the coziest restaurant, tucked away in the Latin Quarter, with amazing bœuf bourguignon. I have no idea what else is even on the menu, I always get the boeuf bourguignon.
Bistrot d'Henri (16 rue Princesse 75006): another classic French spot, with great service and a wonderful menu. I had their salad d'Henri to start and a wonderful duck served with the most delicious dauphinoise potatoes.
Le Petit Marché (9, Rue du Béarn 75003): in the Marais, just off the Place des Vosges, french food with an asian twist. I had delicious lamb chops and mashed potatoes that were so good I wanted to lick the bowl. But I didn't. But I wanted to.
Le Verre Volé (67 Rue de Lancry, 75010): on Canal St. Martin in the 10th, this is a little spot that serves wonderful food and sells lovely bottles of wine. If you come up to the Canal to wander about (which I highly recommend), skip Chez Prune and have lunch or dinner here.
Du Pain et Des Idées (34 rue Yves Toudic, 75010): if you want amazing croissants, baguettes and/or brioche, it is well worth the trip up to the 10th Arr. to visit this boulangerie. Tip: if you want a baguette, come before lunch as they are sold out by mid afternoon, also they are closed on the weekends (they are that good!). I had the distinct pleasure of living around the corner, and ate enough croissants to prove it!
Ten Belles (10 rue de la Grange aux Belles, 75010): while you are up in the 10th getting your croissants, take a stroll across the Canal and grab a cafe from this lovely (english speaking friendly) coffee shop.
Macarons: If you've never had a proper Paris macaroon, you must go to Laduree or Pierre Herme (multiple locations throughout the city) and try a few (my favorite is always the salted caramel, or the chocolate, or the coffee, or the dark chocolate...)
See & Do:
Aside from the obvious, there are so many wonderful slightly off the beaten path things to see in this city, and I didn't get to half of them!
Cimetiere du Pere Lachaise: a beautiful old cemetery filled with famous writers, artists and musicians; truly stunning.
Les Puces: the most amazing antique markets, go early, do not get confused by the swap meet (the markets are just a bit further, go under the overpass and follow the signs) and get lost in the maze of stalls and treasures.
Picnic: grab some cheese and bread (and wine if you're so inclined) and take your picnic to one of the lovely parks - I especially loved Buttes Charmont, a bit out of the way but gorgeous - and just enjoy the afternoon sun (if its shining!) and fabulous people watching.
Concert in St Chapelle: a bit touristy, but a great way to take in what I think is the most beautiful church in Paris. Tickets are usually available day of and you can buy them at the cafe across the street.
Cooking Class: if this is your idea of fun (and it is mine), I highly recommend a half day class at the Alain Ducasse cooking school. I really enjoyed whipping up a meal with my fellow classmates, under the watchful eye of a chef with years of experience in Michelin star restaurants. Lots of fun, and you get to eat what you cook, which is the closest I have come to eating at an Alain Ducasse restaurant!
Giverny: take a half day and visit Monet's House and Gardens. A short train ride (Gare St Lazare to Vernon, where you can either take a shuttle bus, a taxi, or rent a bike for the short trip to Giverny) makes for a nice way to get out of the city for a little bit and much more enjoyable (to me) than Versailles
The rooftop of Printemps: there is a cafe on the roof of this department store that offers some of the most stunning views of Paris. Go up for a coffee or a glass of wine or some ice cream and take in the city.
Gallery Hop in the Marais and St Germain des Pres: wonderful little galleries tucked into quiet streets. And unlike many of the the museums, absolutely free! There are also wonderful shops and restaurants to pop in as well.
While they are not free, the museums here are wonderful, be sure to check out what is on at the Grand Palais if you are planning a visit to Paris; it gets easily overlooked in favor of the Louvre* or the Musee D'Orsay (both of which are must do's!), but I really enjoyed my visit here for the Braque exhibition.
*The Louvre: I skipped the showstoppers this time, having already seen them, and headed up to the top floor of the Sully Wing and enjoyed beautiful paintings from impressionists like Camille Corot and Charles Daubigny (and practically had them all to myself!).
The Rodin Museum: the sculpture gardens are lovely and not to be missed, but be sure to go into the museum as well!
Centre Pompidou: even if modern and contemporary art is not your "thing," it is well worth a visit again for the views from the top. There is a highly rated restaurant there as well, but I did not partake.
I am certain I am forgetting things, and will be sure to update as I remember, but these are some of my Paris highlights that I think others would enjoy. Many thanks to my friends for their wonderful recommendations. And many thanks to Paris, for welcoming me, challenging me, and making this a month I will remember for the rest of my life.
All text and images copyright © 2013, Capital Citizenne. All Rights Reserved.
