Merci, Paris — Capital Citizenne

After a wonderful month filled with new adventures and new friends in Paris, I am back in London. I was not sure what I was expecting out of my month in France, but it is safe to say it far surpassed any expectations I had! And while my seven years of french studies did not suddenly come back to me, I managed to get by and feel inspired to return to studying the language...

Most importantly, I did something I have never really done before: move (albeit only for a month) to a city where I knew no one. There were no old friends, or friends of friends to help me feel at home like in London (or in D.C., or even at Wake Forest). For the first time in my life I was truly on my own, and it was actually kind of exciting (it was also frightening, but lets focus on the positives!). I joined a few MeetUp groups for photographers and expats and quickly built a mini social network that provided a great addition to my time in Paris.

While I set off for Paris without a social safety net, I did not go empty handed. I arrived with loads of wonderful recommendations of what to see, do and where to eat in Paris (merci beaucoup Scott, Gayle, Meg, Collin and Fawn and, of course, Nathalie). Since those recommendations were incredibly useful in planning and making the most of my month , I thought I would pass along a few of my Paris favorites in case you are planing a trip!

Food & Drink:

As I mentioned in an earlier blog, I came to Paris knowing little about French wines but wanted to learn. I loved the tastings and tour I did with O Chateau: a very friendly atmosphere where the primary language is English, but did not feel overly touristy. I would highly recommend scheduling a tasting or just popping in one evening and chatting with one of their sommelier's over a tasty cheese and charcuterie board. If you have a day (and like bubbly), sign up for their tour of the Champagne region, it was one of my absolute favorite Paris days.

Fish (69, Rue de Seine): a great little restaurant in the St. Germain des Pres area that is open on Sunday evenings. This spot, owned by Brits I believe (making it English friendly) is always bustling and busy, but if you go early and grab a seat at the bar you are in for a wonderful meal and, depending on how busy, a nice chat (if you want) with the bartender.

Le Coup Chou (9 & 11, rue de Lanneau 75005): simply the coziest restaurant, tucked away in the Latin Quarter, with amazing bœuf bourguignon. I have no idea what else is even on the menu, I always get the boeuf bourguignon.

Bistrot d'Henri (16 rue Princesse 75006): another classic French spot, with great service and a wonderful menu. I had their salad d'Henri to start and a wonderful duck served with the most delicious dauphinoise potatoes.

Le Petit Marché (9, Rue du Béarn 75003): in the Marais, just off the Place des Vosges, french food with an asian twist. I had delicious lamb chops and mashed potatoes that were so good I wanted to lick the bowl. But I didn't. But I wanted to.

Le Verre Volé (67 Rue de Lancry, 75010): on Canal St. Martin in the 10th, this is a little spot that serves wonderful food and sells lovely bottles of wine. If you come up to the Canal to wander about (which I highly recommend), skip Chez Prune and have lunch or dinner here.

Du Pain et Des Idées (34 rue Yves Toudic, 75010): if you want amazing croissants, baguettes and/or brioche, it is well worth the trip up to the 10th Arr. to visit this boulangerie. Tip: if you want a baguette, come before lunch as they are sold out by mid afternoon, also they are closed on the weekends (they are that good!). I had the distinct pleasure of living around the corner, and ate enough croissants to prove it!

Ten Belles (10 rue de la Grange aux Belles, 75010): while you are up in the 10th getting your croissants, take a stroll across the Canal and grab a cafe from this lovely (english speaking friendly) coffee shop.

Macarons: If you've never had a proper Paris macaroon, you must go to Laduree or Pierre Herme (multiple locations throughout the city) and try a few (my favorite is always the salted caramel, or the chocolate, or the coffee, or the dark chocolate...)

See & Do:

Aside from the obvious, there are so many wonderful slightly off the beaten path things to see in this city, and I didn't get to half of them!

Cimetiere du Pere Lachaise: a beautiful old cemetery filled with famous writers, artists and musicians; truly stunning.

Les Puces: the most amazing antique markets, go early, do not get confused by the swap meet (the markets are just a bit further, go under the overpass and follow the signs) and get lost in the maze of stalls and treasures.

Picnic: grab some cheese and bread (and wine if you're so inclined) and take your picnic to one of the lovely parks - I especially loved Buttes Charmont, a bit out of the way but gorgeous - and just enjoy the afternoon sun (if its shining!) and fabulous people watching.

Concert in St Chapelle: a bit touristy, but a great way to take in what I think is the most beautiful church in Paris. Tickets are usually available day of and you can buy them at the cafe across the street.

Cooking Class: if this is your idea of fun (and it is mine), I highly recommend a half day class at the Alain Ducasse cooking school. I really enjoyed whipping up a meal with my fellow classmates, under the watchful eye of a chef with years of experience in Michelin star restaurants. Lots of fun, and you get to eat what you cook, which is the closest I have come to eating at an Alain Ducasse restaurant!

Giverny: take a half day and visit Monet's House and Gardens. A short train ride (Gare St Lazare to Vernon, where you can either take a shuttle bus, a taxi, or rent a bike for the short trip to Giverny) makes for a nice way to get out of the city for a little bit and much more enjoyable (to me) than Versailles

The rooftop of Printemps: there is a cafe on the roof of this department store that offers some of the most stunning views of Paris. Go up for a coffee or a glass of wine or some ice cream and take in the city.

Gallery Hop in the Marais and St Germain des Pres: wonderful little galleries tucked into quiet streets. And unlike many of the the museums, absolutely free! There are also wonderful shops and restaurants to pop in as well.

While they are not free, the museums here are wonderful, be sure to check out what is on at the Grand Palais if you are planning a visit to Paris; it gets easily overlooked in favor of the Louvre* or the Musee D'Orsay (both of which are must do's!), but I really enjoyed my visit here for the Braque exhibition.

*The Louvre: I skipped the showstoppers this time, having already seen them, and headed up to the top floor of the Sully Wing and enjoyed beautiful paintings from impressionists like Camille Corot and Charles Daubigny (and practically had them all to myself!).

The Rodin Museum: the sculpture gardens are lovely and not to be missed, but be sure to go into the museum as well!

Centre Pompidou: even if modern and contemporary art is not your "thing," it is well worth a visit again for the views from the top. There is a highly rated restaurant there as well, but I did not partake.

I am certain I am forgetting things, and will be sure to update as I remember, but these are some of my Paris highlights that I think others would enjoy. Many thanks to my friends for their wonderful recommendations. And many thanks to Paris, for welcoming me, challenging me, and making this a month I will remember for the rest of my life.