DC based travel, lifestyle and photography blog. A bit of wanderlust mixed with a dash of intention.
Hello friends! Since returning to D.C. I have been busy unpacking and reintegrating, and very remiss about blogging. I hope to change that in the weeks to come. In the meantime, enjoy a few images from our most recent snow!
The UK may have enjoyed one of its most spectacular summers in recent history this year, but for me, nothing can top this autumn. There is something magical about the light here this time of year, it seems as if everything is light from within, and tipped in gold. So on a particularly beautiful day last week, I decided to venture north towards the Peak District and visit Chatsworth House. One of the most famous and visited homes in the U.K., Chatsworth is familiar to visitors around the world from its star turn as Pemberley in the 2005 film adaptation of Pride and Prejudice.
The House was turned out for Christmas, depicting scenes from The Lion The Witch and the Wardrobe, but to be honest, I didn't spend much time inside as the upper rooms were closed for renovations and, as I mentioned, it was one of those days that practically demands you spend it outdoors. 
So I bundled up and ventured outside to enjoy the estate's 105 acres of gardens, soaking up the beauty of autumn in all its glory. 
Confession: of all of the beautiful, stately homes in the United Kingdom, I really wanted to track down the adorable Rose Hill cottage (and equally charming town) from The Holiday (aka the chicken soup of movies, pure comfort, and a bit underrated in my humble opinion). Much to my dismay, I learned that the cottage wasn't real, and the facade was actually constructed on a set in La-La Land, where most of the movie was filmed. Dreams dashed, I was determined to find and visit the most charming village or town in England (complete with adorable cottages).
After some research, I found that it is widely accepted that the "prettiest village in England" is Castle Combe, on the edge of the Cotswolds, near Bath. And as luck would have it, it is only about an hour and a half's train ride from London! So, when I woke up on Tuesday to clear blue skies and sunshine, I hightailed it to Paddington Station to see if Castle Combe lived up to its reputation.
In addition to being among the prettiest, Castle Combe must also be among the tiniest villages in England. But what it lacks in size, it more than makes up for in charm.
I spent the day wandering about, following paths both well defined and less so, climbing muddy hills as best I could in boots without any tread (I even succeeded in staying upright on the climbs down, somehow).
It seemed like every time I turned around, I saw another pretty view.
When my hands finally got so cold that it was difficult to take photos, I retreated to the lovely Manor House Hotel for High Tea.
The tea was wonderful, the location was breathtaking, and the staff were incredibly kind. I have no idea what the rooms are like, but based on my experience, I would highly recommend the Manor House to anyone wanting to visit the area! They also have a Michelin starred restaurant for you traveling gourmands.
I could have happily sat in front of their roaring fireplace all afternoon, the light was fading quickly and I had a train to catch!
While I cannot say for certain that Castle Combe is the prettiest village in England (I haven't visited all of the others, yet), it is hard to imagine a prettier or more charming place to spend a day.
After my lovely trip to Cambridge, I was promptly informed that "Oxford is better." The person who uttered these words has a reason to be biased; a friend from my Canterbury days, Ashley went to Oxford for graduate school (smarty pants) and, determined to prove herself right (or actually just because she's really nice), kindly offered to show me around town, and I could not have asked for a better tour guide!
We started at Pembroke College, where Ashley was a student. It was a treat to get to go beyond the doors and actually see the inside of a college, especially one so pretty!
Founded by King James I, the College is known for having a strong Boat Club and was where J.R.R. Tolkein wrote The Hobbit and the first two Lord of the Rings books while he was a Fellow. Fun fact: the founder of Washington's Smithsonian Institute, James Smithson, was a student at Pembroke
My fabulous tour guide, Ashley
After getting an insider's look at life as an Oxford student, I made my way through town to the Bodleian Library for their Reading Rooms tour, taking a few pictures along the way (naturally).
Usually closed to the public, Duke Humfrey's Library with its rare books and the Radcliffe Camera Reading Room were stunning, and well worth the trip! Sadly, photography is not permitted in the Library, but I was able to take photographs in the Divinity School, where the tour began. If it looks familiar to you, then you are a Harry Potter fan! This is where they filmed the infirmary scenes from the first film.
After the tour I met Ashely at the coziest pub I could imagine, the Turf Tavern, for a proper Sunday Roast.
Then it was time to wander over to Hogwarts, I mean Christ Church College. Many thanks to Ashley for her patience as I continued to snap away.
Christ Church Hall was the model for the fictional Hogwart's Great Hall (sadly, no enchanted ceiling or sorting hats in the real one, but incredible nonetheless). The college is also the setting for Alice's Adventures in Wonderland, as Lewis Carroll studied and taught at Christ Church.
After a walk along the river and a visit to the boat houses, we enjoyed a pint at the Eagle and Child, a favorite of Tolkein and his friend C.S. Lewis and their literary club, The Inklings.
All in all it was a wonderful day with an old friend, I am so glad that Ashley and I have gotten reacquainted during my time in London.
All text and images copyright © 2013, Capital Citizenne. All Rights Reserved.
After a few blustery days here in London (thanks to St. Jude the storm), I woke to beautiful blue skies on Wednesday morning. It was the kind of crisp, Autumn day that makes you want to buy new pencils and notebooks and go back to school, which made it the perfect day to visit Cambridge. Armed with my camera, I caught a direct train from King's Cross to Cambridge and in about an hour I found myself wandering the city's cobblestone streets and passages, exploring the colleges, and criss-crossing the River Cam on it's many bridges.
In addition to being home to one of the world's best universities and beautiful architecture, Cambridge is also home to more bicycles than I have ever seen in my entire life! Dozens of bikes were outside every college, and there were hundreds of them "parked" at the train station. It seems like everyone in Cambridge zooms around on bikes with big wicker baskets. (Note to self: must re-learn to ride a bike!)
Trinity College, one of the University's three royal colleges. Alumni include Isaac Newton, Francis Bacon, Prince Charles and more than a few handfuls of other notables!
King's College Chapel. The famed Choir's Nine Lessons and Carols are broadcast from the Chapel by the BBC every Christmas Eve.
Clare College and the River Cam
The Mathematical Bridge (never being much of a math student, I do not understand the explanations I read about the engineering of this bridge, something to do with tangents. I do know that, despite the arched appearance, the timbers are all straight and it has been rebuilt three times since 1749.)
All text and images copyright © 2013, Capital Citizenne. All Rights Reserved.
When I set out on my adventure, I can honestly say that visiting Liverpool was not on my must-do list. I didn't really know anything about the city other than that it is the birthplace of the Beatles and the local accent is a tricky one for my American ears. My trip to Liverpool was entirely based on wanting to see an exhibition of Tim Hetherington's work at the OpenEye Gallery. Hetherington was an award winning photojournalist, spending most of his time in the worst places in the world, producing incredible images and telling important stories. (If you have not already, I highly recommend you see both Restrepo, which he co-directed with Sebastian Junger, and Which Way is the Front Line From Here, created by Junger following Hetherington's death in Libya in 2011 while covering the civil war).
I considered simply making a day trip to see the exhibition (Liverpool is just over two hours from London by train), but after a bit of research I quickly realized there was a lot more to see and do in Liverpool and decided to make it an overnight visit, booking a room at the modern and minimalist Hope Street Hotel.
Liverpool is home to numerous architecturally significant buildings - ranging from Tudor to ultra-modern styles - and is scattered throughout with sculpture and street art. It is a photographer's dream city.
My first stop was the Open Eye Gallery and the exhibition was absolutely worth the trip. While many of the images in You Never See Them Like This were familiar from the documentaries, there is something about seeing them on a large scale that makes them that much more intense. His Sleeping Soldiers series was one of the most moving I've ever seen.
Following a trip to the nearby Tate Liverpool, I planned to take a ferry ride across the Mersey (cue up Gerry and the Pacemakers) but the gale force winds and my proclivity to motion sickness cancelled those plans!
Instead, I stumbled upon "The Beatles Hidden Gallery" -- located above the ferry terminal -- which is home to a treasure trove of previously unseen images of The Beatles taken between 1963-1964 by Paul Beriff. It was the perfect bridge between my main interests in visiting Liverpool: photography and doing something Beatles-related.
When it comes to The Beatles, I am enough of a fan that I had to do something John/Paul/George & Ringo-related, but not so much that I had to take a two hour bus tour or visit their homesteads. Instead, I decided that I would pay a visit to the club where it all began, and where so many legends have played, The Cavern Club. Technically the current Cavern is actually next door to the original, but they recreated the space using a lot of materials from the original, so it was good enough for me! I descended the stairs, ordered a pint and settled in with fellow-fans for an acoustic Beatles-tribute set. Perfect.
Having finally warmed up, I braced myself for the wind and walked back down to the Albert Docks to do a quick night shoot (and nearly got blown into the Mersey!) before heading "home" to Hope Street for dinner at their lovely restaurant, The London Carriage Works.
The next morning, the sun was shining and the weather was perfect for a trip to the top of Liverpool Cathedral's vestry tower. The Cathedral is the largest in the United Kingdom and the fifth largest in the world (and was designed by the same architect who designed the iconic red telephone booths, Giles Gilbert Scott). Thankfully, there are lifts to take you most of the way up the tower, but the hundred or so steps you have to climb offer terrific views of the tower bells (I can't imagine how loud it would be when they are ringing!).
The views were absolutely wonderful and well-worth the ticket and the queue.
After a quick trip to Bold Street for a bowl of Scouse at Maggie May's, I hopped back on a train and enjoyed my view of sunny Autumn English countryside as we raced back to London.
Leaving Paris was not easy, but I returned to a dazzling London full of beautiful Autumn weather. Crisp, cool days, clear skies, and leaves starting to turn golden hues every where you looked. Hyde Park is just a short stroll from my Notting Hill flat, so I was able to make the most of the weather with daily strolls along its many paths and on a particularly lovely Sunday, I organized a picnic on Hampstead Heath with my friend Scott - a perfect way to get readjusted to London living.
I am within the two month mark of the time I have left on this leg of my adventure, and I cannot believe how quickly it has gone. As much as I have loved it, I am also a bit ready to return to my little house in Washington (despite how crazy it seems there these days!), my friends and family, and of course, my pup. That said, I still have a few more excursions planned and a few visitors in the queue! I am looking forward to having two fellow lovers of London visit in the next few weeks and rediscovering this city with them!
All text and images copyright © 2013, Capital Citizenne. All Rights Reserved.
Mine was the twilight and the morning. Mine was a world of rooftops and love songs. -Roman Payne
On my first night in Paris, I went to a Meet Up for photographers, and just having a bar full of people to talk to (mercifully, in english), made for a warm welcome to a new city. So it was fitting that on one of my last nights in this beautiful city, I attended another Meet Up with the same group. This time, instead of chatting over wine, we took our cameras up to the top of Printemps department store to photograph Paris from an entirely new (at least for me) angle.
At one point, just as the lights on the Eiffel Tower were starting to warm up, I smiled a huge smile as I soaked in the moment, something I find myself doing with great frequency lately. This month in Paris has been incredible and one I will always remember.
All text and images copyright © 2013, Capital Citizenne. All Rights Reserved.
A short train ride from Paris, a visit to Claude Monet's home and gardens in Giverny was a lovely way to spend one of my last days of this Paris trip.
There is no photography allowed inside the house, but it was lovely and filled with amazing paintings as well as simple furnishings. I especially loved the kitchen with its vast collection of gleaming copper pots and pans hung on the wall and the beautiful blue Rouen tiles.
The view of the Clos Normand - the flower garden adjacent to the house - from Monet's bedroom. Monet designed both this garden and the Water Garden, which is located just beyond the trees in the background.
After strolling in the beautiful flower gardens, it was time to make my way to the water gardens that served as the subject of Monet's famous Water Lilies paintings.
The water garden was like walking into a painting and I felt a million miles away from anything, which is especially impressive considering it is now adjacent to a roadway (a nice pedestrian tunnel takes visitors from the flower garden to the water garden).
All text and images copyright © 2013, Capital Citizenne. All Rights Reserved.
Yesterday, on the recommendation of my Epernay tour guide Gui, I hopped on the metro to Porte de Clignancourt to check out Les Puces, or the famed Parisian flea markets. After passing the swap meet style market and saying "non, merci" dozens of times to the men hawking faux designer goods (there seemed to be a constant low whispering of "Louis Vuitton" along the entire street), I arrived at Rue des Rosiers, home of the most amazing antiques markets I could ever imagine. Some of the stalls are piled high with vintage fur coats and handbags. Others with sets and sets and sets of beautiful china. If I thought I could have managed to get them home, and found a place to put them, I would have gladly brought these home!
After winding through the different little streets full of stalls, I discovered the reason so many people come from all over the world: the antiques. If you've been to the flea market at Eastern Market and seen the furniture dealers, you would be as shocked as I was to discover booths made up to look like elegant apartments, selling beautiful pieces worth thousands and thousands of euros.
I did not make it half way through the markets before they started to get overcrowded, but I truly enjoyed my morning wandering about and, admittedly gawking, at some of the goods for sale, including an entire booth of pristine, antique monogrammed Louis Vuitton steamer trunks, where I was shooed away for trying to take a picture and immediately felt like a small child about to be sent to the kitchen by some distant relative for attempting to touch the silver tea set...
The hot temperatures and non-stop sun that greeted me in Paris have given way for a more traditional Parisian Autumn: cool, often grey and rainy, days. Not one to let a little rain stand in the way of my exploring, I took off with my umbrella and camera for Pere Lachaise, a very old and very beautiful cemetery that is the final resting place to a number of Paris' most famous residents. It might seem a bit odd, but it was a truly lovely morning spent strolling around appreciating the beautiful stone work, landscaping and general peace of the place.
All text and images copyright © 2013, Capital Citizenne. All Rights Reserved.
There's a saying that there's nothing more cliche in photography than a sunrise or sunset. While that may be true, a sunrise photo session earlier this week made for an efficient use of an increasingly rare (hooray) bout of insomnia. The first half of this year, insomnia and I were well acquainted. Far too well acquainted for my taste (one of the may reasons for this grand adventure). Earlier this week though, I found myself wide awake at about half past four. After a brief period of studying the inside of my eyelids and begging for sleep to return, I decided that I actually felt fairly refreshed and should make the most of the morning.
I quickly scanned the internet to learn I had an hour before sunrise, threw on some running clothes, grabbed my camera and headed for the Seine. 
While it is usually an activity I reserve for when I travel west (due to the time difference), I absolutely love getting up early in a new place and watching the city wake up and come to life.
Maybe it is because I'm really a morning person at heart, but I think there is something kind of magical about seeing a city's street lights turn off, having done their work for another day.
On the walk back, the once-empty sidewalks were full of people making their way to work, shops were opening, and cafes were serving their first customers. I made my way back to my neighborhood and grabbed a croissant and a coffee and sat on a bench by the Canal St. Martin, enjoying a bit more of early morning Paris...before retreating to my apartment for a quick nap!
All text and images copyright © 2013, Capital Citizenne. All Rights Reserved.
