A Grand Time in Brighton
Hello dear readers, I am sorry for the gap in posts. I have been busy soaking up my last days (for now) in London before I head to Paris next week. I hope to do a few posts to share what all I have been up to, but for now, I'll share my recent get-a-way to Brighton. Despite being a short (just under an hour) train ride from London, I failed to make it to Brighton the last time I was here. This time around, I feel like everywhere I turned, I was hearing or reading about Brighton! Perhaps this was because we were enjoying such a marvelous summer and everyone had sunshine and beaches on the brain, or possibly Brighton is just enjoying a moment, I don't know, but I decided I needed to see what all the fuss was about.
Seeing that the area was expecting lovely, sunny weather and armed with some recommendations from friends and Conde Nast Traveller, I hastily made a one night reservation at The Grand Brighton yesterday morning, grabbed my extra camera battery and hopped on a train at Victoria Station bound for the English Channel.
After a quick 15 minute walk from the train station, I arrived at The Grand. For those fellow Disney World enthusiasts (we can't be the only family that enjoyed the Disney treatment!), the Grand is what I imagine they had in mind when they built the Beach Club and the Boardwalk resorts. Very elegant but at the same time, beachy and casual. It is also the same hotel that was bombed during the Conservative Party conference in Brighton in the 1980s.
I lucked into a sea view room, with a balcony no less! And though I was (again) tempted to just laze about my room, I quickly got settled, got my camera ready and headed out to see what this seaside city had to offer.
My friend Scott insisted I check out the Royal Pavilion, and I am so glad he did! It is quite possibly the most bizarre place I have seen in this country. Built as a seaside retreat for then-George, Prince of Wales (later King George the IV), the building looks like it would be more at home in India or even Dubai than Brighton, and features extremely extravagant chinoiserie interiors. Sadly, they do not allow photography inside, but there was a massive chandelier that appeared to be held up by an equally massive dragon (as it turns out, they retrofitted the existing brick structure with steel so as to support this chandelier and other additions!), hand painted silk wall coverings, ornate furnishings and lots of bamboo (or faux-bamboo) accents throughout. A nice end to the tour, I enjoyed a pot of earl gray and a scone on the patio of the Pavilion's tea room, overlooking the gardens and grounds.
I attempted to stroll back towards the hotel through The Lanes - a cute shopping district - but got flustered by the crowds and quickly made my way back to the boardwalk. I may have to take a day trip back to Brighton to explore the many galleries as well as the prolific public and street art when it is not quite so busy!
The sea front was bustling with beachgoers* enjoying the late summer weather (*I say beach, but there is no sand. It is all rocks. Thus, the cute beach chairs!) as well as the many entertaining diversions along the beach: the Pier, artist's stalls, cafes and bars and a cheerful carousel.
The rocks are not easy on the feet (especially when said feet are in less than practical footwear), so I headed back to the hotel to give their highly recommended restaurant, GB1, a try at an early dinner. I had a seat at the bar where I could see both the water, and the chef working away. Always nice to get a show with dinner! The meal was wonderful, I started with a few oysters, followed by a clam and scallop linguine and polished off with a molten chocolate brownie served with a scoop of peanut butter ice cream and bananas! When I expressed my delight at the bananas to my waiter - who had strongly urged me to try this dessert...as though I needed much arm twisting -- he remarked that yes, isn't it an unusual combination. He was blown away when I replied, well not really, my mom made me peanut butter and banana sandwiches as a kid (ok, as an adult too) and I in turn was blown away when he said that peanut butter and jelly sandwiches aren't really a thing here. Yes, I was eating at what Conde Nast Traveller labeled a "swish new eatery" and discussing, of all things, peanut butter and jelly.
I returned to the beach in time for the sunset to take some additional photos and soak in one of my favorite times to be on the water, as the sun fades and the water, and everything in it, appears to calm down. People were making the most of the last moments of sunlight, playing beach volleyball as well as basketball, riding bikes and looking sun spent and happy.
I retreated back to my room to sleep off the day, with the windows open just enough to hear the waves. Not too shabby!
I woke up to the sound of sea birds squawking their morning greetings, and enjoyed one of my all time favorite indulgences: breakfast delivered to the room! It is an easy thing to do at The Grand, breakfast is included and they charge a very minimal 5 pound tray fee to have it brought up. With the view I had, this was a no brainer!
After an early start, I headed to the Brighton Pier just as it was opening up and coming up to life. It was a nice walk on a brisk morning, and I enjoyed taking it in without throngs of people. The pier is delightfully kitschy, with a Zoltar machine greeting guests, loads of arcade games, a fish and chips place that claims to be the spiritual home of the dish (complete with a disco ball in the weather vane) and of course, a slew of carnival rides that made my stomach do flip flops just looking at them (even when they weren't operating!)
I returned to the hotel to check out, but I wasn't quite ready to leave my little slice of grandeur, so I curled up in a large wing back chair in their terrace room to enjoy the latest on my summer reading list, Z: A Novel of Zelda Fitzgerald (so far so good, but I'm not that far in!).
Having had such a lovely dinner - and having had an equally difficult time deciding what to order - at GB1, I decided to treat myself to lunch before leaving, ordering and devouring their Lobster Burger, which was every bit as good as it sounds (unless of course you think it sounds awful, then it was the opposite of that!). I fully appreciate that it sort of sounds like all I did in Brighton was eat. That's not really that far off the mark. It's a good thing my walk/run on Monday turned into a seven miler instead of my planned three to four miles!
A quick train trip brought me back to London, and back to the reality that I need to get serious about laundry and packing because I am headed to Paris for a month in a matter of days! How did this happen?!?